Spirits of Nature

I’ve known about Mt. Fuji before coming to Japan. Without a doubt it is one of the most famous volcanoes in the world for its distinctive conic shape. Going on this term abroad I had many places in mind which I wanted to see in Japan, but never before did I think of Fuji. Ok, it is a volcanic mountain, but I’ve seen many beautiful mountains in the U.S.: last summer, for example, I went toYosemite National Park and hiked on top of the waterfalls, and I am still to see Niagara Falls which is only few hours away from my college.

However, after few months being in Japan, I felt an intense desire to see Fujisan. I stopped thinking of it as simply of a mountain; somehow it became more to me. Now I saw Fuji as a sacred entity of Japanese culture, something that confines great spiritual power and unique beauty. In fact, it seems that Japanese themselves see it as so. Overall, from my observations I noticed that Japanese culture often embraces nature. In contrast to western modern mores, Japanese people seem to keep the antique tradition of noticing and appreciating beauty of nature. Present sacred view of Fuji perhaps takes its roots in the religious practices to climb Fujisan and worship its deities.

Furthermore, for anyone visiting Japan it would hard not to notice that Japanese are fascinated (I heard some even say “obsessed”) by season changes. The banal example of it is of course hanami*. One may argue that it is popular today just because it gives people a reason to have fun, and of course there is truth these words, but I still think hanami is more than that**.

Koyo***, tradition of watching autumn leaves, is somewhat less popular, but still attracts great attention of Japanese and tourists. In October-November it is common to find countless souvenirs and postal cards with illustrations of colorful autumn leaves. You may be thinking, of course, it is because Japan has four distinct seasons. However, in my home country Ukraine we also have beautiful and vivid autumn, but no one, except perhaps for the children, takes time to notice it.

There may be numerous reasons lying behind it, but, even though Japan is modern, the culture seems to maintain the tradition of paying peculiar attention to nature and its spirits.

*Hanami in literal translation means “flower viewing”. Sakura Matsuri (Cherry Blossom Festival) is popular all over Japan. Every spring people gather under sakura trees to admire its beautiful blossoms and socialize (not forgetting the sake).

**Interestingly, fascination by beauty of flowers originally came to Japanese culture from China.

*** Koyo in literal translation means “red leaves”.

References:

"Autumn leaves (koyo) in Japan." Japan-guide.com - Japan Travel and Living Guide. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2014.html.

"Fuji Sengen Shrine." http://www.city.fujiyoshida.yamanashi.jp/div/english/html/shrine.html.

"Hanami." Japan Hotels& Travel Guide. http://www.japaneselifestyle.com.au/culture/hanami.html.

"Koyo in Tokyo." Blue Lotus. http://blue_moon.typepad.com/blue_lotus/2008/11/koyo-in-tokyo.html.

"Volcano Myths and Legends - Japan." http://volcano.oregonstate.edu/legends/japan/japan.html.

Kobo Daishi

I would say that one of the greatest places where one can observe religion in Japan is Koyasan (Mt. Koya). It is the center of Shingon Buddhism and the place where many find enlightenment and peace. Koyasan was established by Kukai who in fact was the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Interestingly, very few sources mention his real name. According to Mandala Net, he was called Mao as a child, and Kukai was the name he took after his full ordination ceremony. However, he is also largely known as Kobo Daishi. This name was given to him by Emperor Daigo in 919, fifty-eight years after Kukai entered perpetual concentration. What do I mean by concentration? Kobo Daishi spent his last days meditating in Okuno-in temple of Koyasan, and it is believed that he did not die. Instead he entered an eternal concentration, and up to this day Kukai is there meditating. On the first image is Kobo Daishi’s statue at the graveyard next to Okuno-in temple. As on most of the illustrations, in his right hand Kukai is holding vajra – “a symbolic weapon that represents… indestructibility… and spiritual power,” and in his left hand he has Buddhist prayer ring (Buddhist Artwork Online Store).

Japanese people, including important and famous history figures, often wish to be berried next to Kobo Daishi, which perhaps made Okuno-in graveyard the largest in Japan. Surrounded by forest this cemetery carries an extraordinary spirit which cannot be unnoticed by the passer-by. I believe that it truly is one of the most sacred places in Japan.

References

"History of Koyasan." Official Website of Koyasan. http://www.shukubo.jp/eng/01_history.html.

"Kobo Daishi (Kukai), Father of Japan's Shingon Sect." Buddhist Artwork Online Store - Buddha Statues from Japan, China, & Greater Asia. http://www.buddhist-artwork.com/html/kobo-daishi.html.

"Koyasan and Shingon Esoteric Buddhism." Mandala Net. http://www.mandala.ne.jp/koyasan/daishi.html.

"Koyasan Travel: Okunoin Temple." Japan-guide.com - Japan Travel and Living Guide. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4901.html.

From manly to girly?

Japan as other countries, although somewhat later, has experienced great changes in gender roles. The differences in attitudes between the generations are clear and obvious.

At the beginning of the term I heard from somebody that in Japan eating chocolate is considered to be girly, and men may tend to eat dark chocolate (perhaps such as Pokey Men’s Bitter Chocolate). However, when I asked other Japanese about this, they said that they have not heard such thing, and that men like chocolate very much.

In the past, on the other hand, notions were quite different. My otoosan (host-family’s father), who is 63, said that when at the times of his youth, even if a man liked sweets, he was embarrassed to admit it because it would be considered feminine. Man’s hair also was supposed no longer than up to his ears. Otoosan also said that once, maybe in high school or college, he wore a red sweater, and others made fun of him saying that he looked girlish.

In contrast, take a look at Japanese men now. Most of the U.S. and many European international students (men in particular) say that Japanese guys look too feminine. Their hair and clothing style in the U.S., for example, would be considered gay. A couple of my guy friends, who are also international students, at a clothing store had a bit of a confusion telling apart women’s and men’s departments. It is also not uncommon to see young men wear bright colors and accessories such as phone charms. As to the man on the second photograph, of course he is one of the extreme examples, and not all Japanese men nowadays look like him. He may be gay, but there is very good probability he is not.