Changing impression: I think only now I may be beginning to understand

I have lived in Japan for 3.5 months now, and even though I leaned a lot about Japanese culture, I’ve also come to understand that I there are many things that I really don’t understand.

As I arrived to Japan, I noticed how strict and inflexible things are here. In such a way, if one orders a meal set at a restaurant, and wishes to substitute desert for another slice of bread, for example, it is likely that he/she wouldn’t be able to do so even though a slice of bread is evidently cheaper than a slice of a cake. Why? Because set is a set. The same thing sometimes is also true for cafeterias. Another example is the seating in the buses of a long destination. The seats are assigned, and normally person is seated next to someone of the same gender. Once my friend and I did not get seats next to each other, and we asked if it was possible to switch with somebody. It wasn’t. Small things and nuances like these examples I see everywhere. Furthermore, if you break a rule, Japanese may be merciless, which I not only witnessed but actually got to experience on my own.

So how do Japanese survive in this country of rules and restrictions? Yes, Japanese are diligent people who like rules, but I also began to notice that they find ways to get around those restrictions. It all seems to be a matter of relationships and communication. My otoosan (host-father), for example, gets speeding tickets from time to time, but he always gets away without paying a fine. My okaasan (host-mom) can get discounts anywhere she goes and also seems to get around restrictions pretty easily. Unfortunately I do not know Japanese well enough to understand what my host-parents actually say in such situations. Sweet talk? There is common expression in Japanese goma o suru. In literal translation it means to grind sesame seeds, but as an idiom it is “applied to a person who plays sycophant or who fawns upon another” (Buchanan 63). Although this expression is often used in negative connotation, it seems to be a big part of Japanese culture and maybe even necessary component of building good relationships. Being nice to people and playing by “social rules” is taken to a whole new level in Japan. Moreover, Japanese culture is especially big on omiyage* and present giving.

If you go traveling, you are expected to bring back an omiyage for your boss, family, and other people, to show that you were thinking of them while away. Moreover, twice a year in Japan people send presents to everyone who helps and takes care of them. My otoosan in this time of a year gets at least one package a day. First when I heard about tradition of omiyage and present giving, it seemed a bit strange to me, but slowly I begin to see the whole picture. It is all about establishing good relationships. Japanese culture is strict, but if you have good communication skills and connections, you may be able to get around many things. Yes, it may be true anywhere in the world to a certain extent, but, from my observations, in Japan it is especially emphasized. Although I still do not fully understand how it works.

Another question is what do you do being a gaijin** in Japan? Do these techniques still apply?

* omiyage – lit. “souvenir”

** gaijin – lit. “foreigner”

Reference:

Buchanan, Daniel C., 1965. Japanese proverbs and sayings. University of Oklahoma Press. p. 63 http://books.google.com/books?id=wGb4zNqYj10C&pg=PA63&lpg=PA63&dq=goma+o+suru+expression&source=bl&ots=RAaFGE5hHg&sig=XNOl2C0luQqhdCv_CYLQYip4l4s&hl=en&ei=VOUlS6_pHIvW7AOUs9W0Bg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CB0Q6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=goma%20o%20suru%20expression&f=false

Politics of Garbage in Japan

Many who come to Japan often wonder, “What is the deal here with the garbage cans?!” You can walk for many kilometers without seeing a single garbage can. At that, surprisingly, you almost never see garbage lying around on the streets. So what is the deal with Japan and garbage?

There are seems to be more than one explanation for the lack of trash cans on the streets, and I will mention two of them. Some say that garbage cans were removed as one of the precautions against terrorist attacks. After sarin attack in subways of Tokyo in 1995*, lockers and garbage cans were sealed and removed as a potential bomb hiding places. However, I was not able to find a source stating that for the same reason garbage cans were removed on the streets and in the parks. Moreover, it seems that trash cans disappeared from public places before 1995. The second explanation, that seems the most reasonable to me, is Japanese recycling system. Japan (standing next to Germany) has one of the best recycling systems in the world. Japanese sort their garbage by PET bottles (with caps and labels removed), plastic, burnable, glass, aluminum, and sometimes more categories exist. To keep up this system, whenever placing a garbage can, the city would need to set up at least 3 or 4 types which is an additional expanse that the cities perhaps are not willing to pay for.

You may think, “But isn’t it necessary? Wouldn’t people otherwise throw their garbage wherever they stand thereby littering the streets?” Apparently not in Japan. Japanese, as good citizens, carry their garbage with them and then recycle it when they get home. There are certainly many reasons for this phenomenon, which make a great topic for a separate discussion. Here I will only mention that it is part of Japanese philosophy to comply with rules, do what is the best for society, and think of the consequences. It could be a part of collective thinking. In individualistic countries people may think “If I don’t litter, somebody else will, so my action won’t make a difference” or “No one litters here so if I will this one or two times, it will not make a difference,” hence everyone thinks just in terms of themselves. In Japan, on the other hand, people tend to think, “If everyone will litter, streets will become dirty, and neither I nor others will enjoy it; so I will not litter even if it makes an inconvenience for me right now to carry my garbage with me.” The same philosophy may also apply to recycling.

To sum up, the garbage politics in Japan are as follows. The absence of trash cans on the streets of Japan seems to be partially caused by recycling system which is essential and well-developed in this country. However, despite the lack of garbage cans, littering is not an issue which may be explained by Japanese collective psychology.

* For more information see: http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=e9ERAAAAIBAJ&sjid=rewDAAAAIBAJ&pg=6553,2434296

References:

Olmsted, J. 2007. Japan’s recycling: more efficient than U.S.A. http://www.unwstout.edu/rs/2007/Recycling.pdf

"The Deseret News. - Archive Search." Google News. http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=e9ERAAAAIBAJ&sjid=rewDAAAAIBAJ&pg=6553,2434296.

"Garbage in Japan." Bonsai Superstar. http://bonsai-superstar.blogspot.com/2007/08/garbage.html.

"The Philosophy of Garbage and Japan." EzineArticles Submission - Submit Your Best Quality Original Articles For Massive Exposure, Ezine Publishers Get 25 Free Article Reprints. http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Philosophy-of-Garbage-and-Japan&id=2103972.

Spirits of Nature

I’ve known about Mt. Fuji before coming to Japan. Without a doubt it is one of the most famous volcanoes in the world for its distinctive conic shape. Going on this term abroad I had many places in mind which I wanted to see in Japan, but never before did I think of Fuji. Ok, it is a volcanic mountain, but I’ve seen many beautiful mountains in the U.S.: last summer, for example, I went toYosemite National Park and hiked on top of the waterfalls, and I am still to see Niagara Falls which is only few hours away from my college.

However, after few months being in Japan, I felt an intense desire to see Fujisan. I stopped thinking of it as simply of a mountain; somehow it became more to me. Now I saw Fuji as a sacred entity of Japanese culture, something that confines great spiritual power and unique beauty. In fact, it seems that Japanese themselves see it as so. Overall, from my observations I noticed that Japanese culture often embraces nature. In contrast to western modern mores, Japanese people seem to keep the antique tradition of noticing and appreciating beauty of nature. Present sacred view of Fuji perhaps takes its roots in the religious practices to climb Fujisan and worship its deities.

Furthermore, for anyone visiting Japan it would hard not to notice that Japanese are fascinated (I heard some even say “obsessed”) by season changes. The banal example of it is of course hanami*. One may argue that it is popular today just because it gives people a reason to have fun, and of course there is truth these words, but I still think hanami is more than that**.

Koyo***, tradition of watching autumn leaves, is somewhat less popular, but still attracts great attention of Japanese and tourists. In October-November it is common to find countless souvenirs and postal cards with illustrations of colorful autumn leaves. You may be thinking, of course, it is because Japan has four distinct seasons. However, in my home country Ukraine we also have beautiful and vivid autumn, but no one, except perhaps for the children, takes time to notice it.

There may be numerous reasons lying behind it, but, even though Japan is modern, the culture seems to maintain the tradition of paying peculiar attention to nature and its spirits.

*Hanami in literal translation means “flower viewing”. Sakura Matsuri (Cherry Blossom Festival) is popular all over Japan. Every spring people gather under sakura trees to admire its beautiful blossoms and socialize (not forgetting the sake).

**Interestingly, fascination by beauty of flowers originally came to Japanese culture from China.

*** Koyo in literal translation means “red leaves”.

References:

"Autumn leaves (koyo) in Japan." Japan-guide.com - Japan Travel and Living Guide. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2014.html.

"Fuji Sengen Shrine." http://www.city.fujiyoshida.yamanashi.jp/div/english/html/shrine.html.

"Hanami." Japan Hotels& Travel Guide. http://www.japaneselifestyle.com.au/culture/hanami.html.

"Koyo in Tokyo." Blue Lotus. http://blue_moon.typepad.com/blue_lotus/2008/11/koyo-in-tokyo.html.

"Volcano Myths and Legends - Japan." http://volcano.oregonstate.edu/legends/japan/japan.html.

Kobo Daishi

I would say that one of the greatest places where one can observe religion in Japan is Koyasan (Mt. Koya). It is the center of Shingon Buddhism and the place where many find enlightenment and peace. Koyasan was established by Kukai who in fact was the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Interestingly, very few sources mention his real name. According to Mandala Net, he was called Mao as a child, and Kukai was the name he took after his full ordination ceremony. However, he is also largely known as Kobo Daishi. This name was given to him by Emperor Daigo in 919, fifty-eight years after Kukai entered perpetual concentration. What do I mean by concentration? Kobo Daishi spent his last days meditating in Okuno-in temple of Koyasan, and it is believed that he did not die. Instead he entered an eternal concentration, and up to this day Kukai is there meditating. On the first image is Kobo Daishi’s statue at the graveyard next to Okuno-in temple. As on most of the illustrations, in his right hand Kukai is holding vajra – “a symbolic weapon that represents… indestructibility… and spiritual power,” and in his left hand he has Buddhist prayer ring (Buddhist Artwork Online Store).

Japanese people, including important and famous history figures, often wish to be berried next to Kobo Daishi, which perhaps made Okuno-in graveyard the largest in Japan. Surrounded by forest this cemetery carries an extraordinary spirit which cannot be unnoticed by the passer-by. I believe that it truly is one of the most sacred places in Japan.

References

"History of Koyasan." Official Website of Koyasan. http://www.shukubo.jp/eng/01_history.html.

"Kobo Daishi (Kukai), Father of Japan's Shingon Sect." Buddhist Artwork Online Store - Buddha Statues from Japan, China, & Greater Asia. http://www.buddhist-artwork.com/html/kobo-daishi.html.

"Koyasan and Shingon Esoteric Buddhism." Mandala Net. http://www.mandala.ne.jp/koyasan/daishi.html.

"Koyasan Travel: Okunoin Temple." Japan-guide.com - Japan Travel and Living Guide. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4901.html.

From manly to girly?

Japan as other countries, although somewhat later, has experienced great changes in gender roles. The differences in attitudes between the generations are clear and obvious.

At the beginning of the term I heard from somebody that in Japan eating chocolate is considered to be girly, and men may tend to eat dark chocolate (perhaps such as Pokey Men’s Bitter Chocolate). However, when I asked other Japanese about this, they said that they have not heard such thing, and that men like chocolate very much.

In the past, on the other hand, notions were quite different. My otoosan (host-family’s father), who is 63, said that when at the times of his youth, even if a man liked sweets, he was embarrassed to admit it because it would be considered feminine. Man’s hair also was supposed no longer than up to his ears. Otoosan also said that once, maybe in high school or college, he wore a red sweater, and others made fun of him saying that he looked girlish.

In contrast, take a look at Japanese men now. Most of the U.S. and many European international students (men in particular) say that Japanese guys look too feminine. Their hair and clothing style in the U.S., for example, would be considered gay. A couple of my guy friends, who are also international students, at a clothing store had a bit of a confusion telling apart women’s and men’s departments. It is also not uncommon to see young men wear bright colors and accessories such as phone charms. As to the man on the second photograph, of course he is one of the extreme examples, and not all Japanese men nowadays look like him. He may be gay, but there is very good probability he is not.

Japan-Modified

A couple of days ago I decided to make some Ukrainian traditional food for my host-family. Debating about what would be the most appropriate for Japanese taste, I decided on mashed potato varenyky* (bareniki in Japanese pronunciation). As I sat a big bowl of varenyky in the middle of the table, all members of my Japanese family were already clicking their chopsticks in anticipation. I explained that this food is generally eaten with sour cream, and that was actually all I was able to say before my family attacked the bowl. I was very happy to see all the excitement about my traditional food and that it did not disappoint.

However, very soon the situation at the dinner table took a different turn. Before I could notice, my sister and other family members were already dipping my Ukrainian food in soy souse. After the soy souse, they quickly discovered that varenyky also taste well with curry... I am not sure what exactly I felt at that moment. Of course I made this food for them to enjoy, and it doesn’t really matter how they eat it as long as they like it. Another part of me, on the other hand, somewhere deep inside was screaming, “Aayayay, this is not how it goes! Put that soy souse down!” On top of that, tonight the left-over of varenyky my host-family used as one of the ingredients in nabe udon (udon in a pot).**

I am not trying to say that all or even a majority of Japanese would do the same if presented with foreign food, but I think that my host-family’s actions represent very well what Japanese usually do with many things that come from abroad, and food in particular. Take a curry for example.

Kareh raisu is one of the most popular dishes in Japan. It is, however, quite different from the curry which originated in South Asia. Japanese curry, as it is often referred to, is a lot milder, sometimes may contain beef, and is generally served with white rice. It is worth noting that curry came to Japan from Britain, not South Asia, and British were the ones to modify it first. Japanese, however, had further input and turned it into their own dish. Moreover, consider pizza. It is very common to find one with white souse, sea food, or an egg on top. Teriyaki burgers also fall under the Japan-modified foods category. As I see it, Japanese more or less operate by “see it, like it, change it to fit own taste, and spread it” principle. Are these changes fore better or worse? That is up to you to judge, but Japanese seem to think they are for better. Who knows, maybe in 20 years I will come back to Japan and see somewhere on the menu nabe-bareniki.

* As described by Wikipedia: Varenyky are square- or screscent-shaped dumplings of unleavened dough, stuffed with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut, cheese, cabbage, meat, or a combination of these, or with a fruit filling. Varenyky are typically topped with fried salo bits [something similar to bacon] and onions and accompanied with sour cream. Left-over varenyky may be fried. http://en.wikipedia.org/wili/Vareniki

** Please don’t misunderstand, I am not at all offended by the actions of my host-family. In fact, I find it quite entertaining what they did with my food.

References:

"Diving into Japanese curry - new comfort food from Japan." Trend Pot NY, LLC, Mar. 2009. Web. http://www.chopsticksny.com/features/023/.

Itoh, Makiko. "Japanese beef curry (Curry Rice)." JustHungry. 6 Feb. 2007. Web. http://www.justhungry.com/japanese-beef-curry.

Recreation in Japan

Walking around Kyoto one weekend, I was fascinated by the view of Kamogawa (Kamo River). Besides beautiful nature, I saw many Japanese people enjoying their time on the river-bank as illustrated on the first two photographs. Some were fishing, some were on a romantic date, and some were riding bicycles. Some people also go out to the river for a picnic with family and/or friends or just to spend time outdoors.

I asked some of my Japanese friends if family activities were popular in Japan, but they said, "no." When children are little, maybe until to middle or high school age, families often spend weekends together. They go to picnics and sometimes play sports together in the parks. The ones you would more likely see are baseball, badminton, jump rope, and catch ball. When children grow up, however, it is more common for them as well as their parents to spend weekends and travel with friends. Such an explanation definitely confirmed my observations. I haven’t seen many families with high school age children or older out on a picnic or doing other family activities. In such a way, on Komogawa bank I mostly saw elementary school children with their parents or couples, which is also reflected in the images.

It's all about what you wear

There are not enough words to tell about Japanese pop-culture. Especially extraordinary I find to be street fashion. The clothing styles are beautiful, astonishing, bold, strange, bizarre, original, and you can go on and on trying to describe them. Osaka’s America Mura is one of the districts where you can find great variety of street fashion. Some styles fall under the specific trend, some appear to be a mix of several trends, and some do not seem to have a known origin. My attempts to figure out the style illustrated in this photograph were in vain. However, when I asked my Japanese host-family if they knew what fashion it was, and my siblings said that it might be men’s version of Gothic Lolita style adapted by women, but the girl on the right also may be soft punk. Here is a video which in short summarizes what this style is all about:

This outfit also presented a challenge for me. When I showed this photograph to my Japanese friends and host-family, the most common response was "Eeeeeh," you know the one Japanese use for "What in the world?" However, one of my friends said that this is Furugi Gyaru, trend that uses second hand clothing. Also note that the variety of bright colors in these outfits is very particular to Osaka fashion.

This next style, called Ganguro, is well-known, and in literal translation it means "black face." It is one of the sub-trends of Gyaru, which essentially stands for “gal” or “girl”. Typical characteristics of Ganguro are dark tanned skin, dyed blond hair, and high platform boots (Talarowska-Kacprzak 2001). This look was very popular in 1990-2000 time periods, but it still can be seen on the streets today. Shoichi Aoki, creator of FRUiTS magazine, in his interview with Tony Barrell said about Ganguro, “Where they came from is actually a mystery, no one really knows but there is some speculation that they were girls who were infatuated or fascinated with Janet Jackson or black American musicians or perhaps Naomi Campbell, the super model, but it’s still a mystery what their origins were.” However, Talarowska-Kacprzak in her paper argues that Ganguro was created by media with intention to contradict traditional gender roles, where women played a peripheral part, and “promote a new style of being a woman.”

Overall, when you end up in one of these street fashion districts, it seems that here in Japan it is all about what you wear. There are always things to look at and to be amused by.

References:

"Shoichi Aoki Interview." Interview by Tony Barrell. The Night Air. Brent Clough, 9 Mar. 2003. Web. 6 Oct. 2009. http://www.abc.net.au/rn/arts/nightair/stories/s788802.htm.

Talarowska-Kacprzak, Kinga. "Media and the Construction of the Ganguro Trend in Japan." Journal of Mundane Behavior (2001). Web. 6 Oct. 2009. http://www.mundanebehavior.org/issues/v2n1/kinga.htm.

Neighborhood Hirakata

If you pass by Hirakata station in the morning on a week day, it is impossible not to notice students, all in a hurry to get to their classes. Even in a rainy weather, uniforms of middle and high school students undoubtedly will catch the eye, especially that of a foreigner.

Of course we all know that the “school girl” look became famous mainly because of Japanese, but it is a different experience to see teenagers wear these uniforms in a natural environment, so to say. Most of the middle schools and also many high schools in Hirakata require their students to wear uniforms, which differ from school to school. However, shift your gaze towards one of the bus stops, and the picture changes: you will see a long line of college students waiting to get on a bus going to Kansai Gaidai Nikamiya Campus*.

Here, distinctive and bold clothing styles substitute innocent (or not so much) school uniforms. It is quite overwhelming to see over one hundred girls looking (or trying to look) unique and stylish. Near all of them wear heels and own something of kirakira**. As for me, every time I see this crowd of dressed up college girls standing there ready to impress and show off all kinds of imaginable accessories, my immediate thought is “Oh my Gosh, I need to get to get new clothes and some nice kirakira!”

*yearly enrollment of this University constitutes about 10,000 people. At that, majority of the students are female (http://www.kansaigaidai.ac.jp/asp/01_the_university/02.html)

** kirakira refers to cute and shiny accessories very popular in Japan

It is good that I am in Japan

After 11-hour flight San Francisco - Osaka, I finally stepped off the plane. I was more than ready to get on the bus, taking me from the airport to the Kansai Gaidai University seminar house, and stare my way out of the window forming very first impressions about Japan. My excitement however was disturbed by 16-hour jet leg, and in less than 10 minutes I was asleep, observing the back of my eyelids instead of this new to me country. When I woke up, the students were already rushing to pick up their luggage. I didn't have another choice but to begin my journey in the international dormitory instead. As I entered, I was asked to take off my shoes. I knew that Japanese people take off their shoes the minute they enter their homes, but in the dormitory?

The floors looked very clean and therefore I did not mind going barefoot. However, I was asked to put my shoes on of the shelves in the corridor that is accessible to anybody who passes by. My first thought was, "There is no way I am leaving my 60 dollar puma sneakers out of my site!" Nevertheless, I was too tired to argue, and I left my
pumas on the shelf as was instructed. In the past 5 year I've lived in the United States; however, I was born and brought up in Ukraine. If this was happening in my home country, my shoes would be guaranteed get stolen within an hour after leaving them on the common shoe shelf; moreover, there would be a high probability for my sneakers to be gone before I could even unlace them. If you've ever been to Japan, you know that here it is not at all the case. In fact, now I've been here for 3 weeks and it just does not settle in my mind how any human can be as conscientious as the Japanese.

I also had a chance to test Japanese honesty on myself. Yes, my shoes were on the shelf as I had left them, but not only that. One day I was heading to the store when I suddenly I realized that I did not have my wallet. I left it in the computer room more than 40 minutes ago. "Oh no! - I thought - my life is in that wallet! All of my cash, my debit card, credit card, international student ID, and my U.S. green card! If it is gone... " I didn't want to think further, and I ran back to the computer room. My wallet wasn't there, but it was in the Lost and Found. Everything was there to the last hyaku yen. It is good that I am in Japan.

In a similar manner, one of the New York Times articles by Notrimitsu Onishi also describes fascinating to foreigners Tokyo's Lost and Found Center, reflecting well on Japanese culture http://www.nytimes.com/2004/01/08/world/never-lost-but-found-daily-japanese-honesty.html.