I would say that one of the greatest places where one can observe religion in Japan is Koyasan (Mt. Koya). It is the center of Shingon Buddhism and the place where many find enlightenment and peace. Koyasan was established by Kukai who in fact was the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Interestingly, very few sources mention his real name. According to Mandala Net, he was called Mao as a child, and Kukai was the name he took after his full ordination ceremony. However, he is also largely known as Kobo Daishi. This name was given to him by Emperor Daigo in 919, fifty-eight years after Kukai entered perpetual concentration. What do I mean by concentration? Kobo Daishi spent his last days meditating in Okuno-in temple of Koyasan, and it is believed that he did not die. Instead he entered an eternal concentration, and up to this day Kukai is there meditating. On the first image is Kobo Daishi’s statue at the graveyard next to Okuno-in temple. As on most of the illustrations, in his right hand Kukai is holding vajra – “a symbolic weapon that represents… indestructibility… and spiritual power,” and in his left hand he has Buddhist prayer ring (Buddhist Artwork Online Store).
Japanese people, including important and famous history figures, often wish to be berried next to Kobo Daishi, which perhaps made Okuno-in graveyard the largest in Japan. Surrounded by forest this cemetery carries an extraordinary spirit which cannot be unnoticed by the passer-by. I believe that it truly is one of the most sacred places in Japan.
References
"History of Koyasan." Official Website of Koyasan. http://www.shukubo.jp/eng/01_history.html.
"Kobo Daishi (Kukai), Father of Japan's Shingon Sect." Buddhist Artwork Online Store - Buddha Statues from Japan, China, & Greater Asia. http://www.buddhist-artwork.com/html/kobo-daishi.html.
"Koyasan and Shingon Esoteric Buddhism." Mandala Net. http://www.mandala.ne.jp/koyasan/daishi.html.
"Koyasan Travel: Okunoin Temple." Japan-guide.com - Japan Travel and Living Guide. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4901.html.
Yes! Koyasan is a great place to explore Japanese religion and do visual anthropology. Lots of interesting temples and the cemetery is fun to explore (but a little scary when it gets dark...). I hope your post inspires other students to check this place out.
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